When it comes to honing your cosmetic slight-of-hand,
you'll want to start with these tips.
you want to create a beautiful, long-lasting makeup, it's essential
to start on clean, fresh skin. Residue--dirt from the environment as
well as oils from your own system--collects on the skin and should be
removed before you start applying makeup. After cleansing with a product
specially formulated for your skin type, you should use a tonic (if
you have oily skin) or a moisturizer. You may even need an astringent
lotion and a moisturizer; tonic on an oily T-zone and moisturizer everywhere
Apply moisturizer in a three-dot pattern (three on each cheek, three
on your forehead, two on your nose, and one on your chin) to ensure
even coverage. Also apply on eyelids and over lips. Be careful not to
use too much, and blend well so that your skin will be sealed and protected
from the ravages of nature and pollution.
Now you are ready to begin putting on your makeup.
Concealer Using a cotton swab or a small brush, draw a line of
concealer around the inner corner of your eye. Blend well; there should
be no line of demarcation when concealer is properly blended into the
skin. Then blend concealer down from the side of your mouth to cover
smile lines, between the eyebrows to cover frown marks, around nostrils
to hide broken capillaries, and over blemishes--wherever needed.
Foundation Put a few drops of foundation onto a dry makeup
sponge and distribute on your face in a three-dot pattern. Blend quickly
in long, even strokes down toward the jawline and up to the hairline,
until forehead and cheeks are covered. Using a corner of your sponge,
dab hard-to-reach areas around your nose, mouth and chin. Blend your
makeup base into your lips, then apply one more dot to each eyelid.
Stroke the skin around the eye gently as you work the foundation inward.
Check coverage, dabbing with your sponge until imperfections have disappeared.
Finally, blot with a tissue to remove excess foundation or any oily
Loose Transparent Powder Sprinkle your basic shade of loose
transparent powder into the palm of your hand. Lightly dip your powder
brush into the powder and dab over cheeks, chin, nose, and forehead,
then brush over eyelids and lips. Use more powder to cover oily skin;
less if your skin is dry.
Contour Use your straight-edged contour or blusher brush
to apply a dark-toned contour powder. (Remember, light emphasizes, dark
recedes.) The same general technique applies wherever you use contour.
Draw a line of contour powder over the area you wish to shade, then
blend until the line becomes a shadow. In applying contour to cheeks,
jaw, forehead, temples, and so forth, think oval: Shorten a long face,
narrow a round face to give your face a more perfect shape. When applying
contour to your cheeks, blend contour in a downward direction from the
line directly under your cheekbone, thus causing the hollow of the cheek
to recede in relation to the height of the bone. Apply to the sides
of your nose to narrow it; complete the illusion by drawing a thin line
of concealer down the center of the nose. Contour under your chin to
mask a double chin. Apply down the sides of your neck to elongate your
neck. In short, use contour wherever you need it--and blend, always
blend, until the line of powder becomes a shadow.
Blusher Dip a blusher brush in a powder blusher and shake
off the excess. Draw a line of color directly under your cheekbones
and right on top of your contour shadow. Blend in an upward direction;
the brighter blusher shade will stand out in contrast to the darker
contour below, thus accentuating the height of the cheekbone. Blend
until the line becomes a shadow and there is no clear line delineating
contour from blusher.
Cheek Highlighter Use a flat matte white powder shadow as
a cheek highlighter. Dip your powder brush into the shadow and draw
a line of highlighter just above the line of your blusher. The line
will visually separate your cheekbone from your eye. Next create a rough
triangle of highlighter all around your cheekbone and under the line
of contour to further pronounce the height of your cheekbone. Blend
until the lines become shadows.
NEXT ISSUE: Completing the picture, Ilana
Harkavi demonstrates how to complete application of eye makeup and shares
tips for your particular face shape.
is president and creative director of Il-Makiage, a cosmetics company
with a palette of more than 500 colors. She is a renowned makeup artist
and a beauty trendsetter whose clients have included Cher, Kim Basinger,
Madonna. Diana Ross and Sylvester Stallone. Harkavi also is the author
of a beauty book I'll Make You Beautiful.